Yeosu City, located on the southeastern tip of South Korea’s South Jeolla Province on the Yeosu Peninsula, is a beautiful city where the vast sea and historical relics harmonize. It features 317 islands, including 46 inhabited ones, diverse natural landscapes, and historical sites related to Admiral Yi Sun-sin from the Joseon Dynasty. With its picturesque blend of mountains like Sobeksan and coastal beauty, coupled with annual festivals, Yeosu captivates visitors.
Yeoseo City (여수시) is a city located on the southeastern tip of the Yeosu Peninsula in South Jeolla Province, South Korea. It covers an area of 512.26 square kilometers and has a coastline length of 879.03 kilometers, including 365 subsidiary islands.
As a leading industrial city in South Jeolla Province alongside Gwangyang City, Yeosu is home to Yeosu National Industrial Complex, where 264 companies, including GS Caltex, LG Chem, Lotte Chemical, and Yeosu NCC, are based, contributing to the development of the petrochemical industry. It produces 33% of South Korea’s fertilizers, 47% of petrochemicals (ethylene), and 26% of refining. Tourist attractions include Jinjagwan, the headquarters where Admiral Yi Sun-sin worked during the Joseon Dynasty (National Treasure No. 304), and Oedaldo, designated as Hallyeo Maritime National Park. Yeosu Campus of Chonnam National University serves as a higher education institution. In 2013, the Maritime Police Academy was relocated to Ocheon-dong. The city hall is located in Hakdong, while the city council, Yeosu City Hall, and Yeosu Regional Maritime Affairs and Fisheries Office are located in Yeoseo-dong, with Munsu City Hall in Munsu-dong. It is divided into 1 eup, 6 myeon, and 20 dong. As of August 2023, the population is 272,503, the second largest in South Jeolla Province, but it is decreasing. Yeosu hosted the World Expo in 2012.
Natural Environment
The terrain of Dolsando, connected to the Yeosu Peninsula and the Yeosu Bridge, resembles the shape of an “H”. The geological formations of the Yeosu Peninsula, Dolsando, and other island areas belong to the Cretaceous stratum. This stratum is further divided into the Gyeongsang sedimentary group and other Cretaceous layers. Islands like Geumodo, Gaedo, Baekyado, Nangdo, Ando, Sorida, and Jangdo consist of intermediate volcanic rocks and were formed by intrusions into the Jurassic Daedong sedimentary group.
High and low mountains extending from the Sobeksan Mountain Range, including mountains like Angmusan, Gugsabong, Suamsan, Hwangsaebong, lead to mountains like Gamabong, Jeonbongsan, Yeongjuisan, and Jesoksan to the northeast.
To the southeast, there are mountains like Horangsan, Cheongseongsan, and Bonghwasan. To the south, mountains like Bibongsan, Ansimsan, Anyangsan, Iyongsan, Gobongsan, and Bonghwasan extend in a row.
Surrounding the Yeosu Bay (Gamak Bay), Daemisan and Cheonwangsan of Dolsando rise in the east, while Bonghwasan of Gaedo and Samgaksan of Hwataedo encircle it in the south.
With such rugged mountain ranges stretching from north to south and steep slopes, flatlands are scarce. The Sorapyeong Plain spreads widely to the north of the peninsula, while the south is dominated by the Gamak Bay. The Sorapyeong Plain is an alluvial plain formed by the Daepocheon River.
The Daepocheon River, the longest river on the northern part of the Soramyeon, flows through the central north of Soramyeon. As a relatively abundant river, it merges with several tributaries and flows into the Daepori reservoir. It then flows into the Yeonyangcheon, a northeast-flowing stream, which joins the Dukyangcheon flowing through the reclaimed land and empties into the Gwangyang Bay.
Due to the steep terrain, there are no long rivers. Most rivers flow into the Gwangyang Bay, serving as industrial water for petrochemical complexes.
There were small sandbars in the estuary, but they have now been developed into reclaimed land. Yeonhwacheon flows into the northern part and flows into Suncheon Bay. Yeondeungcheon originates from Horangsan and flows southeast into the Yeosu Bay. The coastline is intricate, with reclaimed land in various places and tidal flats developed. There are extensive tidal flats on Myodo Island in Gwangyang Bay.
Relatively wide Yeocheon plains unfold on the west and north sides of Jeonbongsan and Yeongjuisan, serving as agricultural land, while most of the northern plains have been developed into the Yeocheon Industrial Complex. Between the Yeosu Peninsula and Dolsando, there is the Yeosu Strait, which has a fast flow.
In the sea in front of the southeastern tip of the Yeosu Peninsula, natural breakwaters are formed by islands like Daegyungdo, Sogyungdo, Gajangdo, Yado, Odongdo, and Dolsando, making Yeosu Port a natural harbor. There are a total of 317 islands, including 46 inhabited islands, 268 uninhabited islands, and 3 islets.
The climate is mild, and there are even years when snow doesn’t fall. The average annual temperature is 15.0°C, with an average temperature of 2.9°C in January and 25.6°C in August. The annual precipitation is 1,433mm. Islands like Geumodo and Geomundo have lush subtropical forests, and there are also areas where tropical plants are distributed.
History
While there are no archaeological remains from the Stone Age, relics and artifacts from the Bronze Age have been discovered. Sites from the Bronze Age include Ando, Dolsando, and Yeondo, with various pottery fragments, stone knives, axes, bone needles, fishing nets, and human skull bones excavated from the “Ando Shell Mound.” Artifacts from the Bronze Age and the early Iron Age, such as stone tools and pottery, have been found in places like Dunjeon-ri and Jukporee in Dolsan-eup, and Sori-do in Nam-myeon. Dolmens, about 500 in total, are distributed in areas like Dolsan-eup, Yulchon-myeon, Soramyeon, Hwayang-myeon, Dundeok-dong, Orim-dong, Bongje-dong, and Junghyung-dong.
During the Samhan period, there is a claim that the area of the Yeosu Peninsula belonged to the state of Wonji (爰池國), but this is not certain. During the Three Kingdoms period, the area was part of Baekje, with Wonchon-hyeon (猿村縣) in the current Yeosu area and Dolsan-hyeon (突山縣) in the current Dolsan area, subordinated to Gambyeong-gun (欿平郡) or Sambyeong-gun (歃平郡).
However, the titles Gambyeong or Sambyeong are said to have originated from the verb to insert (揷) a stake, which later evolved into a different meaning. Therefore, it would be more appropriate to refer to it as Gachyeong-gun (揷平郡) or Gogijeodeul.
After the unification of the Three Kingdoms by Silla, in 757 (during the reign of King Gyeongdeok), Gambyeong-gun was renamed as Haeup-hyeon (海邑縣), and Dolsan-hyeon was renamed as Yeosan-hyeon (廬山縣). In 892 (during the reign of Queen Jinseong), Gyeon Hwon established the Mok clan in Mujinju, leading to its annexation into the territory of Hubaekje.
In 940 (during the 23rd year of King Taejo), Haeup-hyeon was renamed Yeosu-hyeon (麗水縣), and Yeosan-hyeon was renamed Dolsan-hyeon again. These two hyeons were still sub-counties of Suwon-gun. Local names originated from here. Through the Goryeo period, this area had Yeosu-hyeon and Dolsan-hyeon, as well as Samilpo-hyang (三日浦鄕), Jeongbang-hyang (正方鄕), Jinnye-bugok (進禮部曲), and Sorapo-bugok (召羅浦部曲).
In 1350 (during the 2nd year of King Chungjeong), it was first dispatched a county magistrate and elevated to a county seat. During the reign of King Gongmin, in the 14th century, Yu Tak (柳濯) at Jangsaengpo and Jeong Ji (鄭地) at Gwaneum Port famously repelled foreign invasions, leading to the creation of a folk song called “Jangsaengpo Song.” Subsequently, it became a crucial military area for defending the southern coast, with numerous forts being established.
In 1396 (during the 5th year of King Taejo), due to the rebellion of County Magistrate Oh Heun-in (吳欣仁) against the new dynasty, it was abolished but later merged into Suncheon-do Province and continued during the Joseon Dynasty. At the same time, Jinnye was established but was abolished in 1423 (during the 5th year of King Sejong), and Nerye Maho-jin (內禮萬戶鎭) was established.
In 1479 (during the 10th year of King Seongjong), Jin was abolished, and instead, Jeollajwasudo-gunjuldosayeong was established, allowing naval access to the southeastern part of Jeolla Province. From 1485, the construction of Jeollajwasuyoongseong took 5 years and 8 months.
In 1620 (during the 12th year of King Gwanghaegun), the monument for the Victory of Lee’s Naval Forces (統制李公水軍大捷碑) was erected. In 1725 (during the 1st year of King Yeongjo), Yeosu-do Province was established, simultaneously serving as Jeolla Left Naval Commander’s Office, but it was abolished the following year. During the Joseon period, there were relics such as Jinnamgwan and Seongji in Orim-dong, Munsu-dong, and Mipyeong-dong.
In April 23, 1885 (during the 22nd year of King Gojong), the British army occupied Geomundo in Samsan-myeon, leading to the Geomundo Occupation Incident, which lasted until March 1, 1887. In 1894 (during the 31st year of King Gojong), Donghak Revolutionaries attacked Jeollajwasuyoongseong, leading to fierce battles here. In 1895, Jeollajwasuyoong was abolished, and in 1896, Dolsan-gun was established in the eastern region.
In 1897, Yeosu-gun was newly established in the mainland area, separating from Suncheon-do Province, governing four myeons: Yeosu, Yulchon, Samil, and Sora. Later, Yeosu-myeon was divided into Neomae-myeon and Ssangbong-myeon, increasing the previous four myeons to seven. In 1914, Dolsan-gun was abolished, and its five myeons were incorporated into Yeosu-gun, dividing it into ten myeons.
In 1931, Yeosu-myeon was promoted to eup. During the March 1st Movement in 1919, Jung Yong-soo and about 30 other intellectuals organized the Baekgi Tonggokdan, lamenting the loss of national sovereignty. Additionally, Yu Bong-mok and Lee Sun-woo planned a resistance movement centered around Yeosu Fishing School but failed.
During the Gwangju Student Movement in 1929, about 200 students from Yeosu Fishing School staged a joint protest. Furthermore, activities of the Mutual Help Association, led by Kim Baek-pyung and Lee Sang-ho, were very active.
In October 1948, following the Yeosu Rebellion Incident, where a faction of troops from the 14th Division stationed there revolted, there were subsequent developments:
1949: In June, the opening of Yeosu Port was declared, and in August, Yeosu-eup was elevated to a city, separating the remaining areas into Yecheon-gun.
1973: Gyungho-ri in Dolsan-myeon was incorporated into the city, creating Gyungho-dong.
1980: On December 1st, both Dolsan-myeon and Samil-myeon were elevated to eup status. Also, construction of Dolsan Bridge began, which was completed in 1984.
1986: On January 1st, Yecheon Jigu Outpost was elevated to Yecheon City.
1987: Some parts of Gyungho-dong were incorporated into Yeosu City.
1998: On April 1st, Yecheon City, Yecheon-gun, and Yeosu City were merged, forming the new Yeosu City.
Yeosu’s role in the Imjin War.
In 1592, on April 14th, the Japanese army initiated their invasion. During the early stages of the Imjin War, the naval forces of Gyeongsang-do Left Navy and Right Navy collapsed without any resistance. Admiral Yi Sun-sin had already prepared turtle ships in the Yeosu area in anticipation of the Japanese invasion. He mobilized the frontline forces from his headquarters and moved towards the southern coast of Gyeongsang-do. Yi Sun-sin achieved continuous victories everywhere he went, defeating the Japanese naval forces significantly at Okpo, Hapcheon, Danghangpo, Yulpo, Noryang, and Hansan Island. Local leaders and warriors from various regions of Jeolla Province joined Yi’s expedition.
In August 1593, Yi Sun-sin was appointed as the Naval Commander of the Three Provinces and established a naval base in Yeosu. However, considering Yeosu’s remote location and disadvantageous geographical position for naval battles, Yi decided to keep his main headquarters intact and relocate it to Hansan Island, where it was easier to conceal ships and essential for blocking the passage of Japanese naval forces through the southern coast.
Regarding the Imjin War, the activities of Jung Cheol (1544-1595), Jung Rin (1556-1595), and Jung Choon (1555-1594) in the Yeosu area are noteworthy. When the Japanese invaded in 1592, they contributed significantly by mobilizing their resources and joining Yi Sun-sin’s forces. They participated in various battles, including advancing to Danghangpo. They were natives of the Changwon Jung clan based in Yeosu and later honored at Ojungsa Temple in Ongcheon-dong, Yeosu. Alongside them, the role of the Uiseung Naval Forces centered around Heungguk Temple cannot be overlooked. Various people from different backgrounds, including former officials, scholars, monks, voluntarily joined the war effort. They voluntarily organized and fought alongside the Jeolla Province Naval Forces, leading to victory. Even after the war, the Uiseung Naval Forces under the Jeolla Left Navy were permanently stationed at Heungguk Temple. They were organized under the command of the Chief Monk, stationed in various halls within temples and hermitages, including Hansansa Temple and Seokcheon Temple in present-day Yeosu.
Artifacts and Historic Sites
Stone mound clusters are distributed in various areas such as Mipyung-dong, Dundeok-dong, and Yeosu Olim-dong (designated as Jeollanam-do Cultural Properties in 1994), including Uduri, Pyeongsa-ri, Dunjeon-ri, and Jukpo-ri in Dolsan-eup, Gajang-ri and Sansu-ri in Yulchon-myeon, Hwadong-ri and Changmu-ri in Hwayang-myeon, Jukrim-ri and Deogyang-ri in Sora-myeon, and Dumori in Nam-myeon.
There are stone flag poles in Songdo of Dolsan-eup and Geumo Island of Samsan-myeon. Majestic stone swords, stone axes, stone spearheads, and earthenware were excavated in locations such as Jukpo-ri and Dunjeon-ri of Dolsan-eup.
As for fortresses, there are Wolamsan Fortress and Pyeongsa Fortress in Pyeongsa-ri of Dolsan-eup, Singi Mountain Fortress in Shinbok-ri and Geumsung-ri, Jukpo Mountain Fortress in Jukpo-ri, Godol Mountain Fortress in Yongju-ri of Hwayang-myeon, Seokchang Shrine (designated as Jeollanam-do Cultural Property in 1987) in Yecheon-dong, Gwaelak Mountain Fortress constructed during the Imjin War in Bongsan-dong and Munsu-dong.
For ancient military facilities, there are Bangdab Fort in Gunnae-ri of Dolsan-eup, Geumunji Fort in Geumundo of Samsan-myeon, Godol Mountain Fort in Yongju-ri of Hwayang-myeon, Dolsan Dobongsuji in Dunjeon-ri of Dolsan-eup, Dolsan County Office in Gunnae-ri (designated as Jeollanam-do Intangible Cultural Property in 1987), Baekya Fort site in Baekya-ri of Hwajeong-myeon, and Ando Fort site in Andori of Nam-myeon.
As historical sites, there are Yeosu Shipyard Site where Admiral Yi Sun-sin is said to have built his turtle ships in Sijeon-dong (designated as a historical site in 1995) and Jinnamgwan (a national treasure designated in 2001).
For Buddhist cultural properties, there are Eunjeokam in Gunnae-ri of Dolsan-eup and Hyangilam in Yullim-ri (both designated as Jeollanam-do Cultural Properties in 1984), Stone Buddha Statues and Stone Buddha Pedestals at Angsim Temple Site in Jukrim-ri of Sora-myeon. Hansan Temple in Bongsan-dong and Seokcheon Temple in Deokchung-dong are also notable.
As for Confucian cultural properties, there are Yeosu Hyanggyo in Gunja-dong and Yeosu Jinnamgwan (designated as treasures in 1963), Dolsan Hyanggyo in Gunnae-ri of Dolsan-eup, and Hamabi Monument in Deokchung-dong.
In terms of relics from the Joseon Dynasty, there are many related to Admiral Yi Sun-sin’s activities, such as Yeosu Tongsinsa Naval Battle Monument in Gosodong (designated as a treasure in 1973), Yeosu Seokin (designated as Jeollanam-do Intangible Cultural Property in 1972), Yeosu Chungminsaw (designated as a historical site in 1993), and Yeongdang in Namsan-dong. Also, the quarry site where Yi Sun-sin mined stones for wartime use, Seongsaewonji, remains in Wanggol and Baegigol.
There are pavilions like Gunja Pavilion in Gunja-dong and Chungmu Pavilion in Jonghwa-dong.
Regarding intangible cultural heritage, there are Geumundo Boat Song in Samsan-myeon (designated as Jeollanam-do Intangible Cultural Property in 1972) and Hyeoncheon Sodongbae Play in Mipyung-dong (designated as Jeollanam-do Intangible Cultural Property in 1982).
There is also the fossil site of dinosaur footprints in Yeosu’s Nangdori (Natural Monument designated in 2003).
As important folklore materials, there is Yeosu Yeondeungdong Firefighting (designated as important folklore material in 1990), and as scenic spots, there are Gonidaeriji in Pyeongsa-ri of Dolsan-eup (designated as Jeollanam-do Cultural Property in 1979), Sangbaekdo and Habbaekdo in Samsan-myeon (designated as scenic spots in 1979).\
Tourism
Yeosu boasts abundant tourist resources centered around the large and small islands floating on the clear and blue sea of the southern coast, as well as artifacts and historic sites scattered throughout the inland of the Yeosu Peninsula.
Yeosu is rich in relics and artifacts related to Admiral Yi Sun-sin. Malmasan in Sijeon-dong, known as the naval shipyard (a historical site designated in 1995), is where Admiral Yi Sun-sin is believed to have built his turtle ships.
The shipyard features a circumference of about 300m and a depth of 3 to 4m, a Gulgang (bent river) where the ships were berthed, Saegeomjeongji, which served as the office managing the shipyard, Seokjangseung marking the boundary of the shipyard, and Seokju, which supported the turtle ships.
On the middle slope of Yeongchuisan stands Heungguksa Temple, founded by Master Bojo, a national teacher in the 25th year of King Myeongjong’s reign during the Goryeo Dynasty. Inside the temple, there are Daewoongjeon and Wontongjeon. The layout of Heungguksa Temple is distinctive, following the principles of the Avatamsaka Sutra. Notably, the presence of lattice windows on Daewoongjeon, allowing complete openness, is a significant feature.
The murals inside Daewoongjeon (a treasure designated in 1974) and Gwaebool (hanging Buddha) are famous for their beauty. The graceful appearance of Honggyo at the entrance of the temple is also remarkable. Heungguksa Temple is renowned as a training ground for naval soldiers during the Imjin War, and naval troops under Yi Sun-sin participated in battles here.
Moreover, from early April to early May, the azalea blossoms covering Yeongchuisan create a magnificent sight. The clear waters of Yeongchuisan Valley provide a peaceful retreat for Yeosu residents. Myodo Island in Gwangyang Bay boasts picturesque coastal scenery created by the erosion of seawater.
Yeosu’s defense network is comprised of numerous fortresses and castles such as Horangsan Castle, Gollak Mountain Castle, Yeosu Seokbo, Bonggye Castle, and Seokjang Castle. Doryeok Island, Jangdo, and Gadeokdo served as defense islands protecting the shipyards where Admiral Yi Sun-sin constructed, repaired, and berthed his turtle ships.
Jinnamgwan, built in 1598 by Admiral Yi Sun-sin’s naval commander Lee Si-eon, is a large-scale wooden structure and served as the headquarters of the Left Naval Command, the central command of the Three Provinces Naval Forces.
Jasan Park in Jonghwa-dong is a municipal park overlooking Yeosu Harbor and Odong Island. The lush trees surrounding the park create a beautiful scene, especially during sunrise when the mountain peaks are dyed purple.
Janggundo (General’s Island), a small island (about 600m in circumference) in front of Yeosu Harbor, is famous for its underwater stone fortress built in 1497 by General Yi Ryang to repel Japanese invaders. The island is one of Yeosu’s Eight Scenic Views and served as the command post for Admiral Yi Sun-sin’s operations. It features the Tongsinsa Naval Battle Monument erected in 1620 by Admiral Yi’s subordinates to honor his achievements.
Odongdo Island is a prominent attraction in Hallyeohaesang National Park. Known for its underwater flower garden, the island boasts over 190 rare species of trees and is covered in camellias and azaleas. Its coastline reveals various shapes of rocky cliffs.
Mansongri Beach, famous for its black sand, is located 3 km northeast of the city center and attracts many visitors during the summer due to its convenient transportation. Many bathers visit the beach for sand baths, believed to be beneficial for neuralgia. However, the beach’s reputation has declined recently due to industrialization in the area, resulting in a decrease in tourist numbers.
Sado Island in Hwajeong-myeon is a small island known for its peculiar rock formations, habitat for tropical plants like cactus and euphorbia, and black pigeons. The surrounding area is called the “Golden Fishing Grounds” and attracts many fishing boats during the peak fishing season, creating another spectacle.
Since being designated as a national park in 1968, Hallyeohaesang National Park has seen an increase in tourists every year. While Baekdo Island lacks tourist facilities due to being uninhabited, facilities for visitors are well-equipped on Geomundo Island. Yeosu Dadohae, the gateway to Hallyeohaesang National Park, is a representative tourist destination in the maritime park. It offers various amenities and a well-developed transportation network.
From May 3rd to 8th every year, the Yeosu Turtle Ship Festival takes place, featuring various folk games and art performances, celebrating local culture. Other festivals include the Odongdo Camellia Festival, the Haeilam Sunrise Festival, the Yeongchuisan Azalea Festival, and the Geomundo-Baekdo Eunbit Sea Festival.