Suwon: Seoul’s Cooler, Less Crowded Cousin

Suwon, a special city in Gyeonggi-do, South Korea, boasts Hwaseong Fortress, Samsung’s R&D center, and 11 universities. Originally Suwon-bu, it became Suwon-si in 1949. It’s a transportation hub, connected by major expressways. The city has a diverse geography, from plains to mountains. With a population over a million, it’s South Korea’s largest basic local government. Suwon is famous for galbi and tongdak, and hosts the annual Suwon Food Culture Festival. As the “soccer capital,” it’s home to K League teams and has a rich sports history.KT Wiz joined KBO League in 2015.

Suwon (pronounced soo-won-si) is a special city in the mid-southern part of Gyeonggi-do (경기도, 京畿道), South Korea. It is the location of the Gyeonggi-do provincial government. Suwon is bordered by Yongin (용인시, yong-in-si) to the east, Ansan (안산시, an-san-si) to the west, Hwaseong (화성시, hwa-seong-si) to the south, and Uiwang (의왕시, ui-wang-si) to the north. The city hall is located in Ingye-dong (인계동, in-gye-dong) in Paldal-gu (팔달구, pal-dal-gu). Suwon has four districts: Jangan-gu (장안구, jang-an-gu), Gwonseon-gu (권선구, gwon-seon-gu), Paldal-gu (팔달구, pal-dal-gu), and Yeongtong-gu (영통구, yeong-tong-gu).

On January 13, 2022, Suwon, along with Changwon (창원시, chang-won-si), Yongin, and Goyang (고양시, go-yang-si), became a special city. Suwon has the largest population among South Korea’s basic local governments.

Suwon is home to Hwaseong Fortress (수원 화성, 水原華城, su-won hwa-seong), a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Samsung Electronics R&D center and headquarters are located in Maetan-dong (매탄동, mae-tan-dong) in Yeongtong-gu. Suwon also boasts 11 universities.

History of Suwon (수원시, 水原市)

  • August 14, 1949: Suwon-eup (수원읍) in Suwon-gun (수원군) became Suwon-bu (수원부) and separated from Suwon-gun, which was renamed Hwaseong-gun (화성군, 華城郡).
  • August 15, 1949: According to South Korea’s Local Autonomy Law, bu (부, 府) was renamed si (시, 市), so Suwon-bu became Suwon-si (수원시). The Japanese administrative terms jeong (정, 町) and jeongmok (정목, 丁目) were changed to dong (동, 洞) and ga (가, 街), respectively.
  • January 1, 1963: Parts of Ilwang-myeon (일왕면) in Hwaseong-gun, including Sangwanggyo-ri (상광교리), Hagwanggyo-ri (하광교리), Jowon-ri (조원리), Songjuk-ri (송죽리), Pajeong-ri (파장리), Jeongja-ri (정자리), Imok-ri (이목리), Yuljeon-ri (율전리), Cheoncheon-ri (천천리), Tap-ri (탑리), and Guun-ri (구운리), as well as parts of Taejang-myeon (태장면), including Woncheon-ri (원천리), Maetan-ri (매탄리), Gwonseon-ri (권선리), and parts of Anryong-myeon (안룡면), including Gokbanjeong-ri (곡반정리), Daehwanggyo-ri (대황교리), Jangji-ri (장지리), Gosaek-ri (고색리), Pyeong-ri (평리), and Omokcheon-ri (오목천리), were incorporated into Suwon-si.
  • June 23, 1967: The Gyeonggi-do (경기도, 京畿道) provincial government moved from Seoul to Maesan-ro 3-ga (매산로3가) in Suwon.
  • February 15, 1983: Areas including Iui-ri (이의리) and Hari (하리) in Suji-myeon (수지면) of Yongin-gun (용인군), covering regions of Soejukgolcheon (쇠죽골천), Gasancheon (가산천), and Yeocheon (여천, 麗川), were incorporated into Suwon-si.
  • January 1, 1987: Geumgok-ri (금곡리) and Homeisil-ri (호매실리) in Maesong-myeon (매송면) of Hwaseong-gun were incorporated into Suwon-si.
  • July 1, 1988: Jangan-gu (장안구, 長安區) and Gwonseon-gu (권선구, 勸善區) were established.
  • February 1, 1993: Parts of Jangan-gu and Gwonseon-gu were separated to form Paldal-gu (팔달구, 八達區).
  • December 26, 1994: Yeongtong-ri (영통리) in Taan-eup (태안읍) of Hwaseong-gun, along with parts of Sin-ri (신리) and Mangpo-ri (망포리), and parts of Yeongdeok-ri (영덕리) in Giheung-eup (기흥읍) of Yongin-gun, were incorporated into Suwon-si.
  • April 20, 1995: The remaining parts of Sin-ri and Mangpo-ri in Taan-eup of Hwaseong-gun were incorporated into Suwon-si.
  • April 24, 2002: Suwon-si’s registered population exceeded one million.
  • November 24, 2003: Parts of eastern Paldal-gu were separated to establish Yeongtong-gu (영통구, 靈通區). Some areas from Jangan-gu, including Sinan-dong (신안동), Hwaseo 1-dong (화서1동), and Hwaseo 2-dong (화서2동), and from Gwonseon-gu, including Maegyo-dong (매교동), Maesan-dong (매산동), and Godeung-dong (고등동), were incorporated into Paldal-gu.
  • May 9, 2007: Due to the development of Gwanggyo New Town (광교신도시), parts of Sanghyeon-dong (상현동) in Suji-gu (수지구) and Yeongdeok-dong (영덕동) in Giheung-gu (기흥구) of Yongin-si (용인시) were incorporated into Ha-dong (하동) in Yeongtong-gu. Some parts of Ha-dong were transferred to Sanghyeon-dong in Suji-gu.
  • April 2014: Suwon-si’s registered population surpassed that of Ulsan Metropolitan City (울산광역시, ulsan-gwang-yeok-si).
  • September 13, 2019: Parts of Woncheon-dong (원천동) in Yeongtong-gu and Yeongdeok-dong in Giheung-gu of Yongin-si were exchanged.
  • July 24, 2020: Following an agreement at the National Assembly on June 16 and announced on June 23, parts of Sin-dong (신동) and Mangpo-dong (망포동) in Yeongtong-gu and parts of Banjeong-dong (반정동) in Hwaseong-si were exchanged.
  • December 9, 2020: The special city legislation passed in the National Assembly.
  • January 13, 2022: Suwon officially became a special city (특례시, teuk-rye-si).

Geography of Suwon (수원, 水原)

Suwon is located in the mid-southern part of Gyeonggi-do (경기도). It borders Giheung-gu (기흥구) and Suji-gu (수지구) of Yongin-si (용인시) to the east, Sangnok-gu (상록구) of Ansan-si (안산시), Bongdam-eup (봉담읍) and Maesong-myeon (매송면) of Hwaseong-si (화성시) to the west, Byeongjeom (병점) and Dongtan (동탄) of Hwaseong-si to the south, and Uiwang-si (의왕시) to the north.

Suwon is a major transportation hub in the southern part of Gyeonggi-do. It is connected by the Gyeongbu Expressway (경부고속도로), Yeongdong Expressway (영동고속도로), and Yongin-Seoul Expressway (용인서울고속도로). These roads make Suwon a starting point for travel to Incheon (인천) and Yeoju (여주).

The area of Suwon is 121.04 square kilometers, forming a bowl-shaped basin.

In the center of the city is Paldal Mountain (팔달산), which is 143 meters high and features a park. Surrounding it is Hwaseong Fortress (수원화성), a UNESCO World Heritage site. The fortress includes cultural sites like the Dongbuk Gongsimdon (동북공심돈), the four main gates (사대문), Bongwollu Pavilion (봉수대), and Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion (방화수류정).

To the north of the city outskirts are Baegun Mountain (백운산) and Gwanggyo Mountain (광교산), forming high hilly areas. To the west, Chilbo Mountain (칠보산) forms lower hills.

The central and southeastern parts of Suwon are plains, aiding the development of the city’s urban areas and supporting agriculture and horticulture in the suburbs of the metropolitan area.

Population of Suwon (수원, 水原)

As of May 2015, Suwon has a population of 1,213,665 people and 457,535 households. Among these, 1,177,376 are South Korean citizens, and 36,289 are registered foreigners, making up 3% of Suwon’s population.

According to the 2012 statistics, 15.9% of the population is aged 0-14, and 8% are aged 65 and older. The working-age population (15-64 years old) is 76.1%, higher than the national average of 72.8%. The youth dependency ratio is 22.6%, similar to the national average of 22.8%. There are 102 men for every 100 women in Suwon.

Tourism in Suwon (수원, 水原)

Suwon has many natural attractions that serve as great places for residents to relax. In the north, there is Gwanggyo Mountain (광교산); in the west, Chilbo Mountain (칠보산); and in the east, Cheongmyeong Mountain (청명산). There are also several parks and recreational areas:

  • Jijidae and Nohsong Area: Located along the Kyungsoo Road in Pajang-dong (파장동), it is known for its old pine trees.
  • Seoho Reservoir and Seoho Ecological Water Resource Center: Located in Hwaseo-dong (화서동) in the west.
  • Gwanggyo Lake Park: Located in Iui-dong (이의동) in the Gwanggyo New Town (광교신도시) in the east.
  • Ilwol Arboretum (일월수목원): Suwon’s first arboretum, located in Cheoncheon-dong (천천동), covers an area of 101,500 square meters and preserves important plant genetic resources native to Gwanggyo and Chilbo Mountains.
  • Suwon Sports Complex (수원종합운동장, Suwon Jonghap Undongjang): A large sports facility in Suwon, featuring a stadium for various sports events and recreational activities.
  • Suwon World Cup Stadium (수원월드컵경기장, Suwon Woldeukeop Gyeonggijang): A stadium built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup, now used for football matches and other events.
  • Gyeonggi Arts Center (경기도문화의전당, Gyeonggi-do Munhwa-ui Jeondang): A cultural center in Suwon that hosts a variety of performances, exhibitions, and cultural events.

Suwon Hwaseong Fortress (수원 화성, 水原 華城)

Suwon Hwaseong Fortress was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site on December 4, 1997. The fortress has four main gates: Paldalmun (팔달문, the South Gate), Hwaseomun (화서문, the West Gate), Changnyongmun (창룡문, the East Gate), and Janganmun (장안문, the North Gate).

  • Hwaryeongjeon (화령전): Known for its peonies.
  • Hwaseomun (화홍문): A gate with seven arches.
  • Banghwasuryujeong (방화수류정): A beautiful pavilion.
  • Seojangdae (서장대): The command post where King Jeongjo (정조) directed military operations.
  • Yeonmudae (연무대): A military training ground.
  • Bongdon (봉돈): A beacon tower used for communication during the Joseon Dynasty.

The fortress also includes two parks, Jangan Park (장안공원) and Paldal Park (팔달공원), offering scenic places for relaxation. Additionally, there is Hwaseong Haenggung (화성행궁), a temporary palace where King Jeongjo stayed during his visits.

Hwaseong Haenggung (화성 행궁, 華城 行宮)

Hwaseong Haenggung is a temporary palace built in 1789, during the 13th year of King Jeongjo’s (정조) reign in the Joseon Dynasty. It was constructed on the eastern slope of Paldalsan (팔달산) Mountain in Suwon. Originally, it served as the government office and the king’s temporary residence. The palace was expanded during the construction of Hwaseong Fortress from 1794 to 1796.

King Jeongjo was very devoted to his father, Prince Sado (사도 세자), and visited his tomb, Hyunryungwon (현륭원, now Yungneung 융릉), 13 times, staying at Hwaseong Haenggung during these visits. At its peak, the palace had over 600 rooms, including Bongsoo-dang (봉수당), Boknae-dang (복내당), Yuyeo-taek (유여택), Sinpung-ru (신풍루), Nam-Buk Gunyeong (남북군영), Uhwagwan (우화관), and Deukjungjeong (득중정). It was the largest and most beautiful of all temporary palaces in Korea and hosted a grand banquet for Queen Heongyeong (혜경궁 홍씨), King Jeongjo’s mother.

Most of the structures were destroyed during the Japanese occupation, but thanks to the efforts of dedicated local citizens who formed a restoration committee in the late 1980s, restoration work began in 1996. The first phase of the restoration was completed, and Hwaseong Haenggung was opened to the public in October 2003.

Gwanggyo History Park (광교역사공원)

Gwanggyo History Park, located in Iui-dong (이의동) in Yeongtong-gu (영통구), is home to the tombs of Sim On (심온), the father-in-law of King Sejong (세종대왕), and Grand Prince Hyeryeong (혜령군), the fourth son of King Taejong (태종 이방원). This park combines important historical sites with beautiful natural surroundings.

Food

Suwon (수원) is famous for its galbi (갈비, marinated beef ribs) and tongdak (통닭, fried chicken). When King Jeongjo (정조) built Suwon Hwaseong Fortress, he made sure Suwon could function as an independent city. He managed military farmlands (둔전, 軍屯), giving seeds and oxen to farmers. At harvest time, half of the crops were collected, and farmers had to return one ox every three years. As the number of oxen grew, markets for trading them appeared around Suwon Hwaseong.

Every five days, during the Suwon Market on the 4th and 9th, cattle traders and farmers gathered in large numbers. This increase in cattle trade naturally made beef ribs a part of Suwon’s food culture. Suwon is known for its Korean beef ribs, especially from female cattle in Suwon and Hwaseong (화성). These ribs are trimmed of fat, seasoned with sesame oil and salt, and marinated in a cool place. Suwon galbi is often called “Suwon King Galbi” because the ribs are up to 4 inches long. It is one of Korea’s representative galbi dishes, along with Pocheon Idong Galbi (포천 이동갈비).

Since 1995, Suwon has hosted the Suwon Food Culture Festival every year to promote its famous galbi.

Sports

Suwon is often referred to as the “soccer capital” due to its fervent enthusiasm for soccer. As one of the host cities for the 2002 FIFA World Cup, Suwon has hosted many international matches, including the Peace Cup and the 2007 FIFA U-17 World Cup. The city regularly hosts the Suwon Cup International Youth Soccer Tournament in collaboration with the Korea Football Association. Additionally, it has hosted the Peace Queen Cup, an international women’s soccer tournament.

Suwon is home to K League’s Suwon Samsung Bluewings and Suwon FC, as well as WK League’s Suwon FC Wibee (Suwon City Hall FMC Women’s Professional Soccer Team).

Despite its short history since its establishment in 1995, the Suwon Samsung Bluewings have become one of the strongest teams in Asia, winning numerous trophies including the K League 4 times, the Asian Club Championship (now AFC Champions League) twice, the Asian Super Cup twice, the A3 Champions Cup, and the FA Cup 4 times. Suwon boasts star coaches like Kim Ho and Cha Bum-kun, and has produced many national team players such as Ko Jong-soo, Park Kun-ha, and Lee Woon-jae, making it one of the most popular clubs in the K League 1.

Suwon FC has also been a strong contender in the National League of professional soccer, consistently maintaining a top position. Since participating in the K League Challenge, the second-tier professional soccer league, from 2013, Suwon is the only city in South Korea with two men’s professional soccer teams. In 2008, Suwon FC Wibee, a women’s professional soccer team, was founded, further solidifying Suwon’s reputation as a soccer capital. In 2010, when both Suwon FC and Suwon FC Wibee won their respective leagues, they cemented Suwon’s status as a true soccer capital.

On the other hand, the Hyundai Unicorns, which used Suwon Baseball Stadium until 2007, temporarily stayed in Suwon with the goal of relocating to Seoul. However, they failed to gain support from Suwon citizens and eventually disbanded in 2007.

In addition, there were professional basketball teams in Suwon: the KBL’s Samsung Thunders and the WKBL’s Samsung Life Bichumi. However, they relocated their bases to Seoul and Yongin in 2001 and 2005, respectively. In 2021, the KBL team KT Sonicboom relocated from Busan to Suwon, marking the return of a professional basketball team to Suwon after 20 years.

Furthermore, V-League’s Suwon KEPCO Vixtorm (men’s team) and Suwon Hyundai Engineering & Construction Hillstate (women’s team) use Suwon Indoor Gymnasium as their home stadium.

In 2013, the 10th professional baseball team in Korea, KT Wiz, was founded. They participated in the Korea Baseball Futures League in 2014 and joined the KBO League’s pennant race starting from 2015.