Buddhist Bling: Korea’s Temples Are Lit

Korean Buddhist temples were established with the introduction of Buddhism to Korea. The first temples, Ibbullansa and Chomunsa, were built during King Sosurim’s reign in Goguryeo. Temples serve as places for practicing Buddhist teachings and house monks who receive dharma teachings. Currently, there are 926 registered temples in Korea. The term “sachal” refers to a place where Buddha, his teachings, and disciples gather, while “garam” denotes a Buddhist monastery. Temples also play crucial roles in preserving Buddhist traditions and upholding dharma.

Korean Buddhist Temples

Korean Buddhist temples were established as Buddhism was introduced to Korea. The first temples were Ibbullansa and Chomunsa, built during the reign of King Sosurim of Goguryeo.[1] There are currently 926 temples registered with the Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

A temple (sachal, 寺刹) refers to a place where Buddhist teachings are practiced and monks receive dharma teachings from Buddha. In a broader sense, it is the center of dharma transmission where Buddha, his teachings, and his disciples gather to uphold and practice the Three Jewels. Temples are also called “garam” (伽藍), meaning a place where many people gather to practice Buddhism.

“Garam” is a contracted form of the Korean pronunciation of the Sanskrit word “samgha-arama,” meaning a Buddhist monastery. Temples are called “doryang” (道場), a pure place for making offerings to Buddha and conducting Buddhist rituals. They are also known as “jungsa” (精舍), meaning a pure abode. While various terms exist, temples are commonly referred to as “jol” in Korea.

The first temple is said to be the Veluvana Bamboo Grove (죽림정사, 竹林精舍) gifted to Buddha by King Bimbisara of Magadha, India, where Buddha and his disciples often stayed, practiced, and propagated his teachings. Korea’s first temples were Ibbullansa and Chomunsa built during King Sosurim’s reign in Goguryeo.

Among the many temples in Korea, the Five Cardinal Precept Temples (ogdae jeokmuhlbogung) serve as important centers of faith and practice for Buddhists. During the Silla dynasty, the monk Jajang Yulsa enshrined relics of Buddha that he brought from China in five locations: Sangwonsa on Odaesan, Bongjeongam on Seoraksan, Jeongnagamsa on Taebaeksan, Beopheungsa on Sajashan, and Tongdosa in Yangsan.

There are also “chongnim” (叢林) temples where many monks harmoniously practice Buddhism together. These temples have facilities for specialized Buddhist practice like Seonwon (禪院) for meditation, Gangwon (講院) for studying sutras, and Yulwon (律院) for studying the vinaya rules of discipline. The five major Chongnim temples are Haeinsa (Haein Chongnim), Tongdosa (Yeongjuk Chongnim), Songgwangsa (Jogye Chongnim), Sudoksa (Deoksung Chongnim), and Baengnyangsa (Gobul Chongnim), which play a role in preserving Korea’s Buddhist traditions and upholding the true dharma.

Origins of the Terms

Sa (寺)
The term “sa” (사, 寺) originally referred to a government office in China. However, it is said that Indian monks named Mātānga and Dharmananda stayed at a Chinese office called Heungnyo Sa. When these monks later built their own temple, they named it Baengma Sa (White Horse Temple, 백마사) in honor of the white horse that carried the Buddhist scriptures they had brought.

Sawon (寺院, 寺園)
The origin of “sawon” (사원, 寺院/寺園) can also be traced to China. During the Tang dynasty, a translation institute called Beongyeongwon (번경원, 經院) was established within the Dazeshen Temple to translate and study Buddhist sutras. This is said to be the first use of the term “won” (원, 院) in reference to a temple, leading to the later usage of “sawon.”

Sachal (寺刹)
In Indian language, a parasol that shades the sun is called “chattra.” This was transliterated into Chinese characters as “chalda-ra” (차트라, 刹多羅), which was shortened to “chal” (찰, 刹). The pointed ornament at the top of a stupa is called “chaljju” (찰주, 刹柱) or “chalgan” (찰간, 刹竿), and since this ornament could be seen from afar indicating the location of a stupa, the terms “chal” and “stupa” became synonymous. Therefore, “sachal” (사찰, 寺刹) refers to a temple with a stupa.

Garam (伽藍)
In Sanskrit, “sangha” (상가, 僧伽) refers to the Buddhist monastic community, translated as “seunggajedanin” (숭가제단인, 僧伽制檀人) in Chinese characters. “Arama” (아라마) means “a pleasant dwelling with a courtyard.” Combining these two terms, “Sangha-arama” became “garam” (가람, 伽藍) in Korean, referring to a Buddhist temple.

Doryang (道場)
“Doryang” (도량, 道場) originates from “Boridoryang” (보리도량, 菩提道場), the place where Shakyamuni Buddha attained enlightenment. It can refer to a building, place, or location for practicing and achieving Buddhist teachings, but is most commonly used to mean a Buddhist temple.

Jeongsa (精舍)
“Jeongsa” (정사, 精舍) derives from “Jukrimjeongsa” (죽림정사, 竹林精舍), considered the first Buddhist temple, where the Buddha and his disciples resided in Veluvana Bamboo Grove.

Life in a Buddhist Temple in Korea

In a Korean Buddhist temple, there are typically two groups of people: the resident community (상주대중, 常住大衆, sang-ju dae-jung) and the visiting community (내집대중, 來集大衆, nae-jib dae-jung). In the main hall, there is a customary order to maintain harmony. The left side (from the perspective of facing the Buddha statue) is called “Cheongsan” (청산, 靑山), where resident monks sit, and the opposite side is called “Baegun” (백운, 白雲), where visiting guests gather.

Life in a temple is a representation of monastic practice, with strict rules and order for both individuals and group activities. Therefore, actions like drinking alcohol and smoking are prohibited, and maintaining silence is required.

The first step for newcomers to monastic life is the novice training (행자, 行者). They study basic Buddhist teachings, rituals, and scriptures for a year. Afterward, they take full ordination (구족계, 具足戒) to officially begin their life as monks.

Temple residents have various duties. The administrative head is called the “Juji” (주지, 住持). Under the Juji, there are three main officers: the general affairs manager (총무), the education manager (교무), and the finance manager (재무). Depending on the temple’s focus, there might also be a “Josil” (조실, 祖室) for meditation centers or a “Gangju” (강주, 講主) and “Hoeju” (회주, 會主) for academic centers.

The person in charge of the temple’s household is called the “Wonju” (원주, 院主), and under them are various workers such as the cook (공양주, 供養主), the wood and fire manager (부목, 負木), and the cook assistant (채공, 菜供).

When monks visit a temple, they present a “Bangbu” (방부, 榜付), a record card with their name and background, as a formal introduction to the temple’s administration or symbolic leader.

The daily life of monks involves several routine activities, including morning and evening prayers at 3:30 AM and 6:30 PM, respectively, incense offerings, the midday meal offering ceremony at 11 AM, and the repentance ceremony. Monks follow the strict rule, “If you do not work for a day, you do not eat for a day” (일일부작일일불식, 一日不作一日不食), based on the rules of Baizhang from China.

For major tasks or forest maintenance, all monks in the temple participate in communal labor, known as “Unryeok” (운력, 運力). Administrative decisions are made by the Juji or the symbolic leader like the Josil, but significant discussions are conducted through communal meetings called “Daejung Gongsa” (대중공사, 大衆公事).

Educational institutions within the temple, such as the academic center (강원) and the meditation center (선원), operate under strict regulations. The primary function of the temple is monastic training, and the education of monks is essential. The academic center has a basic course structure: the novice class (사미과, 沙彌科), the intermediate class (사집과, 四集科), the advanced class (사교과, 四敎科), and the highest class (대교과, 大敎科), taking about five years to complete. Monks who complete these courses can open a specialized class called “Su-ikgwa” (수의과, 隨意科).

Students at the academic center wake up at 3 AM, attend morning prayers at 4 AM, have breakfast offerings at 6 AM, and take classes from 7 AM to 11 AM and 2 PM to 6 PM, with bedtime at 9 PM.

In the meditation center, intensive practice sessions, called “Angeo” (안거), are the norm. Morning and evening prayers are sometimes reduced to three prostrations. The daily schedule includes long hours of meditation, with sessions of 50 minutes of sitting meditation followed by 10 minutes of walking meditation, totaling over 10 hours a day. The traditional Korean meditation method relies on “Ganhwa” (간화, 看話), which involves meditation on a specific topic. The person in charge of discipline in the meditation hall is called the “Ipsung” (입승, 立繩).

Temple Etiquette

A Buddhist temple is a place for practice, teaching, and a sacred space where Buddha and Bodhisattvas are enshrined. Therefore, we must show special respect when visiting a temple.

First, wear clean and modest clothing when going to a temple. Avoid flashy or overly revealing clothes, and always bring socks as it is customary not to enter the main hall barefoot. Temples are generally open from early morning prayer until before sunset, but it is best to avoid visiting too early or too late.

Inside the temple grounds, maintain a respectful demeanor, speak and act quietly, and do not make loud noises. Avoid running, wearing shoes improperly, or dragging your feet. Refrain from drinking alcohol, eating meat, smoking, or being loud and boisterous. Do not sit on the temple floor or stand with your back to the Buddha statues.

When moving around the temple grounds and in the presence of monks or in the main hall, always perform “Chasu” (차수, 叉手). This is a respectful posture where you lightly place your right hand over your left hand in front of your lower abdomen.

Treat all items in the temple with care as they are considered precious communal property. Always return items to their proper place. Food should be shared equally, and if there is too much, it should be portioned out beforehand to ensure nothing is wasted.

The first gate you will encounter at the temple is the “Iljumun” (일주문), which marks the boundary between the secular world and the monastic life. Upon reaching Iljumun, prepare yourself both outwardly and inwardly, and adopt a reverent attitude. Stop walking, face the main hall, and perform a respectful bow with your hands together (hapjang, 합장).

Upon entering the “Cheonwangmun” (천왕문), you will see statues of the Four Heavenly Kings on either side. These Kings are guardians of the Dharma and protect those who follow it. Show respect by bowing to them. When passing by the memorial stupas (부도, 浮屠) of past monks at the temple entrance, perform a respectful bow with your hands together.

The pagoda is a sacred place where Buddha’s relics are enshrined. Even if it does not contain actual relics, it is treated with the same reverence as Buddha himself. Bow three times with your hands together in front of the pagoda. When circling the pagoda, keep it to your right and circle it three or more times. This practice of circling dates back to the time of Buddha and is a traditional form of worship.

Famous Temples in Seoul

1. Bongeunsa (봉은사)

Many people think that temples with long histories and great fame are hard to visit, but Bongeunsa is right in the middle of Seoul and close to a subway station, making it easy to visit anytime. Located in Samseong-dong, Gangnam District, Bongeunsa is near Teheran-ro, a business hub full of tall buildings. Bongeunsa was founded during the Silla period and became a central place for Buddhism during the Joseon Dynasty. Today, its large grounds provide a peaceful retreat in the busy city. Various flowers bloom each season, and during Buddha’s Birthday, the temple hosts a lantern festival that attracts many photographers. Take a break from the busy city life, enjoy a walk, and meditate at Bongeunsa.
Address: 531 Bongeunsa-ro, Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

2. Jogyesa (조계사)

Jogyesa, along with Bongeunsa, is one of the main temples in Seoul. Although smaller in size, it is the headquarters of the largest Buddhist sect in Korea. The main hall, Daeungjeon, is large and beautiful, comparable to Geunjeongjeon Hall in Gyeongbokgung Palace. At the entrance, there is a large Iljumun gate with the inscription “Jogyesa, the Head Temple of Korean Buddhism.” There is also a white pine tree, a natural monument (천연기념물 제9호, Cheonyeon Ginyeomul Je9ho). Across the street, you can find bookstores selling Buddhist books, shops with Buddhist items, temple stay programs, and restaurants serving temple food. Even if you are not a Buddhist, those interested in vegetarian or temple food should visit. Explore Jogyesa, the center of Korean Buddhism, and try some temple food. Address: 113-10, Bogukmun-ro, Jeongneung-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul

3. Gilsangsa (길상사)

Gilsangsa was established in December 1997, making it about 20 years old. Despite its short history, it has many stories to share. Gilsangsa was originally a high-class restaurant named Daewongak. The owner, Kim Young-han, was inspired by the Buddhist monk Beopjeong’s philosophy of non-possession and donated the buildings and land to create the temple. Because it was not originally built as a temple, the buildings are not old and feel more like a theme park. The temple is charmingly decorated with various lovely spots. Beopjeong also established a library at Gilsangsa, filled with Buddhist and general books. In 2016, the library was renovated and turned into Darani Tea House, a book café. It is a multi-purpose cultural space for relaxation and reading. Visit Gilsangsa, have a cup of tea, and think about the philosophy of non-possession. Address: 68, Seonjam-ro 5-gil, Seongbuk-dong, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul

4. Botasa (보타사)

Botasa is a very small temple but has two national treasures. Behind the Daeungjeon Hall, there is a 5-meter-tall rock carving of a seated Bodhisattva, believed to be from the Goryeo period. Despite the passage of time, the detailed carving still exudes a mysterious aura, making you feel like you are in another world. Another treasure is the Gilt-bronze Seated Bodhisattva (금동보살좌상, Geumdong Bosal Jwasang), Treasure No. 1818, which is believed to be from the Joseon Dynasty. It is small but splendid and well-preserved, showcasing the skills of the ancestors. Botasa is hidden in a small alley, so using public transportation is convenient. Experience the temple while searching for its treasures.
Address: 7, Anam-dong 5-ga, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul

5. Bongwonsa (봉원사)

Bongwonsa is the head temple of the Taego Order of Korean Buddhism. It was first established during the Three Kingdoms period but was damaged during the Japanese invasions of Korea in the late 16th century and was later rebuilt during the Joseon Dynasty. Although the plaque written by King Yeongjo has been lost, a plaque written by Jeong Do-jeon, who was closely associated with the founding of the Joseon Dynasty, still remains, showcasing Bongwonsa’s rich history. The temple’s simple, aged paintwork exudes elegance. Don’t miss the lotus flowers at Bongwonsa. They symbolize compassion and living for others, conveying the teachings of enlightened beings. Visit Bongwonsa, see the pure and fragrant lotus flowers, and reflect on life’s principles.
Address: San 1, Bongwon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

6. Doseonsa (도선사)

Doseonsa is located about 1 km up the valley from Uidong, towards Baegundae, the highest peak of Bukhansan Mountain. The temple houses many cultural relics, including a rock-carved Buddha. For the convenience of elderly visitors, an elevator is available, and a shuttle bus runs to help those who find it difficult to climb the mountain. There are many interesting sights within the temple grounds. The view of Seoul from the middle of Bukhansan is also worth seeing. Each season brings a different look to Bukhansan, so every visit offers something new. At the entrance, there is a tea house called Doseon Tea House. Experience the ancient temple, enjoy the Seoul scenery, and the Bukhansan views, and have a warm cup of tea at Doseon Tea House.
Address: 264, Uidong, Gangbuk-gu, Seoul

7. Cheongnyangsa (청량사)

Cheongnyangsa, which is said to have inspired the name of Cheongnyangni, was founded in the late Silla period. The current temple in Cheongnyangni is not the original one; it was relocated when Empress Myeongseong’s tomb, Hongneung, was created. The famous poet Han Yong-un also stayed here. Although it has a long history, the temple has been gradually expanded and now has a unique appearance. After passing through the temple gate hidden among high-rise apartments, you will find Gwaneumjeon Hall with a unique stone exterior and a Korean signboard. Exploring the temple feels like navigating a maze, as you carefully move along the steps and alleys. From in front of Muryangsujeon Hall, you can see the temple buildings clustered together, surrounded by tall apartments. Enjoy the unique structure and explore the temple thoroughly as if on a treasure hunt.
Address: 61, Cheongnyangri-dong, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul

8. Hoapsa (호압사)

Hoapsa is located on the slopes of Samseongsan Mountain in Gwanaksan. It is said that the temple was built to subdue the tiger energy of the mountain, which was causing harm to people. The temple is small enough to see at a glance and is a nice spot to visit before hiking the Gwanaksan Dulle-gil. Although it does not have as many attractions as larger temples, its symbolic significance of subduing the tiger’s energy is interesting. Even those not familiar with hiking can easily reach it by following the Dulle-gil trail. For those who enjoy hiking, climbing Samseongsan and viewing Seoul’s scenery is also recommended. Visit Hoapsa, step on the tiger’s tail, and feel the tiger’s energy.
Address: 234, Siheung 2-dong, Geumcheon-gu, Seoul

9. Daeseongsa (대성사)

Daeseongsa, part of the Seoul Dulle-gil, which offers beautiful nature and ecological learning opportunities along Seoul’s outskirts, is famous as a place for walks and relaxation. It also offers a great view of the city. Although it has a long history, having been founded during the Baekje period, it was destroyed in war and later rebuilt. The temple grounds are not large, but the ornate paintwork and the wooden seated Buddha, a Seoul Tangible Cultural Property, are worth seeing. Following the steps, you can find the Yaksa Yeorae Samcheung Seoktap, a three-story stone pagoda with charming miniature figures. If you continue up the Umeonsan Mountain trail near Daeseongsa, you can also visit the Tower of Wishes. Inside Daeseongsa, there is a mineral spring. Enjoy a refreshing drink and a relaxing time.
Address: 49, Nambusunhwan-ro 328-gil, Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul