Summary :
Makgeolli, also known as Korean rice wine, is made from rice or wheat fermented with nuruk. Its name, meaning “now-strained liquor” or “hastily strained liquor,” reflects its cloudy appearance when freshly made. Makgeolli’s history dates back to ancient times, with rich cultural significance. Its recent resurgence includes innovative flavors like ginseng or fruit-infused varieties. While traditionally brewed with nuruk, modern mass production uses factory-made agents. Despite changes, makgeolli remains a cultural staple, often enjoyed with savory pancakes or as cocktails. Rich in probiotics and nutrients, makgeolli offers health benefits like improved metabolism and complexion.
Makgeolli is a traditional Korean rice wine. It’s also known as takju(탁주) or nongju(농주), jaechu(재주), hoeju(회주), and baekju(백주). Typically made by fermenting rice or wheat with nuruk (누룩), a fermentation starter. In the case of rice makgeolli, clean rice is steamed and cooled to make nuruk, then mixed with water and nuruk and left to ferment for several days before straining through a sieve.
During fermentation, both alcohol and lactic acid fermentation occur. Makgeolli’s alcohol content ranges from 4% to 18%. Glutinous rice, non-glutinous rice, barley, and wheat flour are soaked, steamed, mixed with nuruk and water, and fermented at a constant temperature to make the brew. When the sediment is not strained and the rice grains are left floating, it’s called dongdongju(동동주).
Name
The name “makgeolli” is a combination of “mak”(막), meaning “now” or “present,” “georeu-“(거르-), meaning “to strain,” and “-i,”(-이), indicating “a thing” or “object.” There are two interpretations of its meaning: “now-strained liquor,” referring to its freshly strained appearance, and “hastily strained liquor,” suggesting it’s quickly made.
Due to its cloudy appearance, it’s also called “takju”(탁주) or “takbaegi”(탁배기). If left to sit for a long time, the sediment settles, resulting in clear rice wine, known as “cheongju”(청주).
It’s also called “nongju”(농주) because it was traditionally consumed by farmers while working in the fields.
Makgeolli contains relatively abundant nutritional components compared to other alcoholic beverages. It includes essential amino acids such as lysine, tryptophan, phenylalanine, and methionine, as well as B vitamins (B1, B2, B6, niacin, folate), vitamin C, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, alcohol, esters, acids, and aldehydes.
In the brewing process of makgeolli, nuruk, also known as “geuk”(국), is added to aid fermentation. Nuruk refers to a mixture of dough and nuruk mold. Due to the uniformity and mass production of nuruk from the 1960s to the 1970s, makgeolli is now generally perceived to have a characteristic fresh and sweet taste, which wasn’t the case in the past. Additionally, slight differences in the taste of makgeolli occur depending on the type of nuruk used.
In the past, the continuous fermentation of yeast resulted in a stronger taste, making it difficult for makgeolli to be distributed over long distances. Although this situation persists for smaller breweries, larger ones produce and distribute makgeolli with consistent taste and quality. The introduction of a sterilization process that kills yeast and other microorganisms has greatly facilitated nationwide distribution. However, sterilized makgeolli is often criticized for lacking the rich taste and aroma found in fresh makgeolli, and the beneficial microorganisms in makgeolli are usually destroyed during sterilization.
Recently, makgeolli has been adjusted to suit the tastes of modern consumers by adding ingredients such as ginseng or fruits and conducting research to reduce the strong taste. Since the makgeolli boom in 2009, a variety of new products have been released, leading to a significant increase in sales. However, some issues have been raised regarding certain unscrupulous manufacturers and distributors taking advantage of this trend.
History
Makgeolli is the oldest alcoholic beverage in Korea, believed to have existed since the prehistoric agricultural era, when grains such as rice, glutinous rice, and barley were cultivated. It has been brewed since the Three Kingdoms period, and there is a story in the 13th-century Goryeo-era book “Jewang Ungi” that Queen Heo, under the influence of drinking a fermented beverage made by her mother-in-law, became pregnant with King Jumong, which is believed to refer to makgeolli.
There are many early records mentioning cheongju (clear rice wine) on the Korean Peninsula. “Samguk Yusa,” compiled during the Goryeo period, mentions that in 661, the 17th generation descendant of King Soji of Gaya received cheongju brewed in Silla for a ritual. The “Shoku Nihongi,” a historical text from Japan’s Asuka period, mentions that a person named Inbe from Baekje introduced brewing techniques. In the poem “Gongji Shi” by the Tang Dynasty poet Yi Sang-eun, there is also a mention of Silla wine being brewed with glutinous rice. References to makgeolli-like beverages such as “Mion”(미온, 美醞), “Jiju” (지주, 旨酒), and “Ryoye”(료예, 醪醴) can be found in “Samguk Sagi” and “Samguk Yusa.”
During the Goryeo period, makgeolli was brewed when pear blossoms bloomed, so it was called Ihwaju. This was related to the tradition in many Korean communities at the time, where people drank and danced all night during special ceremonies. Makgeolli was brewed at home for centuries and was considered the drink of rural laborers. The term “baekju” (白酒), presumed to refer to makgeolli, can also be found in literary collections of the time, such as “Dongguk Isanggukjib.”
In the Joseon period, the writings such as “Chunhyangjeon” and “Gwangje Bol” mention “mokgeolli” and “makgeolni” written in Korean characters. Various cooking books, including “Gyuhap Chongseo” and “Eumsik Dimibang,” also describe how to make makgeolli.
In the 1960s and 1970s, makgeolli, the most consumed alcoholic beverage in Korea at the time, began to lose popularity due to the increase in imported alcoholic beverages. The rice distribution policy implemented by the government during this period, due to a national food shortage, led to a sharp decrease in makgeolli sales as it was made from barley and wheat instead of rice. Since makgeolli was cheap and old-fashioned, many makgeolli companies focused on mass production, prioritizing quantity over quality. In this process, cheongju is usually brewed with non-traditional fermentation sheets instead of traditional nuruk. It is also diluted with water.
In the 21st century, makgeolli is experiencing a resurgence in popularity among urban areas and younger generations. With its nutritional content, low alcohol content, and increased interest in cultural traditions over the past few decades, makgeolli is once again rising in prominence. In 2021, the Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea designated “Makgeolli Making” as a new national intangible cultural heritage item, the first case designated in response to public suggestions. Efforts are also underway to have makgeolli recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
In English-speaking countries, makgeolli is referred to by various spellings, such as Makgeolli, Makuly, and others. Some companies export makgeolli to the United States, branding it as “Nigori-zake(にごり酒),” a Japanese-style unfiltered sake. Additionally, some products are labeled as “Pure Unfiltered Sake” or “Korean Rice Wine.”
Like other Korean foods for which there is no official standard English name, there is a need to establish an official name to reduce confusion and debate.
The Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs has proposed “Korean Rice Wine” as the easiest way to describe makgeolli to foreigners. In a contest to promote global awareness of makgeolli, “Drunken Rice” was selected as the top choice for its easy understanding by foreigners, as it implies that it is made from rice. However, there are concerns that the term “Drunken Rice” goes against the original intention of promoting Korean cuisine globally and could potentially be embarrassing internationally.
The tradition of making makgeolli, known as “makgeolli brewing,” has a long history and has been transmitted and enjoyed throughout the Korean Peninsula. There are records of makgeolli production methods found in various historical documents dating back to the Three Kingdoms period. Due to its potential as a subject of study in various academic fields such as food nutrition, folklore, and history, it is highly valued. Understanding Korean culture deeply through the culture surrounding makgeolli, including songs, proverbs, and literary works related to it, is another reason for its cultural significance.
Makgeolli production involves distinct regional characteristics, with each region having its own unique methods and flavors, centered around breweries distributed throughout the country. Currently, the traditional knowledge of making makgeolli is being transmitted and maintained through various communities, including producers, research institutions, and ordinary households.
Given these factors, the designation of makgeolli as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2021 is considered worthy of recognition.
Until the Joseon Dynasty, makgeolli was brewed in every household as “family-brewed liquor” (가양주), maintaining the unique taste of each household. Like kimchi and soybean paste, it was one of the fermented foods made directly at home. However, during the modern era and the period of Japanese colonial rule, regulations on home brewing were strengthened, and family-brewed liquor became subject to regulation, leading to the generalization of makgeolli production at breweries and changes in ingredients. Despite these changes, makgeolli has adapted to the times and maintained its tradition. Since the 2000s, with the makgeolli craze, there has been an increase in homebrewing as well.
Mass-produced makgeolli is brewed using factory-made fermentation agents instead of traditional nuruk, and water is added along with additives such as aspartame. This method allows for the production of sweet alcohol without using nuruk and extends the shelf life. Sometimes, fruit or ginseng aroma is added. However, there are also efforts to produce new premium makgeolli using traditional methods without artificial additives. As of 2017, there were at least 700 small-scale breweries established in South Korea.
Makgeolli is usually served cold, either directly from the bottle or poured into a bowl with a ladle. Before drinking, it’s common to gently flip the bottle several times to mix the sediment, without opening the cap. Then, it’s poured into small bowls rather than cups. This is because makgeolli tends to separate into a cloudy white layer at the bottom and a clear yellowish liquid on top when left undisturbed.
Makgeolli is often served with various types of savory pancakes such as pajeon (green onion pancakes), haemul pajeon (seafood pancakes), and bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes). Koreans typically enjoy makgeolli with these savory dishes. It is also mixed with fruit such as mango or pineapple and ice to make fruit cocktails, or mixed with soda(사이다) to make a simple cocktail called “maksah(막사).”
Mixing makgeolli with honey creates a drink known as “honey makgeolli(꿀막걸리).”
Due to the presence of beneficial microorganisms during the fermentation process, makgeolli contains probiotics. Makgeolli is known to contain high levels of lactobacillus, along with vitamins, amino acids, and fiber. With a protein content of 1.9%, makgeolli is believed to boost metabolism, relieve fatigue, and improve complexion.