Samgyeopsal, or pork belly, is a flavorful cut with three layers of meat and fat. Often enjoyed grilled, it’s Korea’s favorite pork dish. Its popularity led to the unofficial “Samgyeopsal Day” on March 3rd. In Cheongju, there’s a “Samgyeopsal Street” lined with specialty restaurants. Varieties include thinly sliced, scored, and marinated samgyeopsal. In China, it’s known as “oh-hwa-yuk.” The term “samgyeopsal” became popular in the 1980s, replacing “se-gyeop-sal.” Overseas, it’s called “pork belly” as an ingredient and “Samgyeopsal” as a dish. Samgyeopsal’s history dates back to the Mongol invasions, with its consumption growing significantly after the 1980s.
Samgyeopsal (삼겹살, pronounced sam-gyeop-sal) is a part of pork known as pork belly. The name “samgyeopsal” means “three-layered meat” because it has three layers of meat and fat. Actually, when the skin is removed, it usually has four layers of meat and fat. Samgyeopsal refers to both the ingredient and the dish. From a pig weighing 110 kg, about 10 kg of samgyeopsal can be obtained.
Samgyeopsal comes from the wide and flat part of the pork belly, starting from where the ribs are removed. It is known for its rich flavor. It is the most savory part of pork but also has a lot of fat, making it high in calories. There are many ways to cook it, such as grilling, steaming, boiling, stir-frying, and in stews. Its unique texture is a balance of tenderness and chewiness, which makes it special.
Samgyeopsal is the most popular pork cut among Koreans. In Korea, March 3rd is an unofficial holiday called “Samgyeopsal Day” (삼겹살데이), where people enjoy eating samgyeopsal. In Cheongju (청주시), there is even a “Samgyeopsal Street” with many restaurants specializing in this dish. There are various types of samgyeopsal, such as thinly sliced samgyeopsal (대패삼겹살), scored samgyeopsal (칼집삼겹살), neck samgyeopsal (목삼겹), green tea samgyeopsal (녹차삼겹살), wine samgyeopsal (와인삼겹살), and five-layered pork belly (오겹살).
In China, a famous dish made from pork belly is Dongpo pork (동파육). In the West, pork belly is often used to make bacon, lard (돼지기름), and in cosmetics, but it is not as commonly eaten. In Korea, samgyeopsal is so popular that it is often the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of pork. Due to high demand, Korea imports about 30% of its samgyeopsal from 17 countries, including Spain and Chile.
Origin of the Name
The term “samgyeopsal” (삼겹살, pronounced sam-gyeop-sal) became widely used in the 1980s, so its history is relatively short. Originally, it was called “se-gyeop-sal” (세겹살), which first appeared in the media in a Dong-A Ilbo article on November 3, 1934. The article titled “How to Distinguish Good Meat” mentioned, “The best part of pork for taste is the three-layered meat between the hind leg and the belly, followed by the neck meat.”
In Korean, it is natural to use native Korean numbers when indicating the quantity of layered items or repetitive shapes with the noun “gyeop” (겹). Therefore, until the early 20th century, it was called “se-gyeop-sal” (세겹살). This expression aligns with standard Korean grammar. However, at some point, the term “samgyeopsal” (삼겹살) began using the Sino-Korean numeral “sam” (三), meaning three. As a result of this shift, terms like “ogyeopsal” (오겹살) are also used instead of “daseotgyeopsal” (다섯겹살), which means five-layered meat.
Overseas Examples
In Korean, the same word “samgyeopsal” (삼겹살) is used for both the ingredient and the dish. However, in English, the ingredient is called “pork belly,” while the dish retains the Korean name “Samgyeopsal” and is pronounced the same as in Korean. In 1993, “Samgyeopsal” was added to the Oxford English Dictionary (OED) as a dish name, described as “a Korean dish.” Interestingly, the word “samgyeopsal” was listed in the Standard Korean Language Dictionary in 1994.
In China and Southeast Asia, it is called 五花肉 (오화육, oh-hwa-yuk). In China, pork belly is a main ingredient in many traditional dishes like Dongpo pork (동파육, dong-pa-yuk), braised pork with mei cai (매채수육, mae-chae-su-yuk), and red-braised pork belly (뇌반육, noe-ban-yuk), with a long culinary history. In Japan, it is called 三枚肉 (삼매육, san-mai-niku), which can be translated to “three-layered meat” in Korean. This suggests that the use of “samgyeopsal” and “segyeopsal” in Korean may have been influenced by Japanese terminology, though this is not confirmed.
Visually, pork belly actually has four layers, so it could be called “sa-gyeop-sal” (사겹살) or “four-layered meat.” However, in Chinese culture, the number four (四, 사) sounds like the word for death (死, 사), leading to a superstition against its use. This cultural influence may explain why “samgyeopsal” remains the preferred term.
Characteristics of Samgyeopsal
‘Samgyeopsal’ (삼겹살) refers to the pork belly part of the pig, where the lean meat and fat are layered three times. Because of this, other cuts like galmaegisal (갈매기살) and tohsisal (토시살) are also considered part of samgyeopsal. The combination of red lean meat and white fat creates a delicious flavor. Among pork cuts, it is the most flavorful and can be cooked in various ways, but it is also high in fat and calories.
Nutritional Information
Compared to other meats, samgyeopsal (삼겹살) is rich in vitamin B, high-quality protein, phosphorus, potassium, iron, and various other minerals. These nutrients help maintain youthful and elastic skin and support the growth and development of children. The iron in pork is easily absorbed by the body, preventing iron deficiency anemia, and methionine helps protect the liver and recover from fatigue. However, samgyeopsal is high in calories, with 348 kcal per 100 grams. It contains 15.8% protein and 26.4% fat, making it fattier than other cuts of meat, so overeating can lead to obesity.
History
During the Three Kingdoms period, the influence of Buddhism led to a decline in meat-eating culture. However, in the early 13th century, the Mongol invasions reintroduced meat-eating culture with dishes like seolleongtang (설렁탕) and soju (소주). Unlike the Chinese, who favored pork, Koreans preferred beef and avoided pork, leading to less pig farming. Pigs were primarily raised for fertilizer and meat but were not considered very useful livestock.
Pigs are highly reproductive, produce fertilizer, and can consume food waste. However, they are omnivorous, require grain feed, emit a strong odor, and their meat often has an unpleasant smell. Therefore, they were mainly raised in the Jeolla (전라) region, a grain-producing area where agricultural by-products like chaff and rice bran (쌀겨) could be used as feed.
During the Japanese occupation, the Japanese encouraged pig farming as part of their policy to exploit Korean cattle and rice. Over time, Koreans became more accustomed to pork, but the preference for beef remained strong. Historical records from the Japanese occupation period, including books and media reports mentioning samgyeopsal (삼겹살), suggest that the supply and demand for pork increased during this time.
Amidst the turmoil of Korea’s liberation, the Korean War, and the 5.16 military coup, pig farming remained at a small-scale, subsistence level. As the country industrialized, urban workers needed good animal protein, but beef prices soared every spring. Most people preferred beef, but cows were essential for farming, limiting beef production. In 1967, after a beef crisis, the government promoted livestock farming, encouraging pig farming. From the 1970s, dedicated pig farms grew in number and size.
Despite the beef preference, pork had a strong odor until the mid-1970s. Many small farmers used food scraps as pig feed, and a lack of refrigeration led to frequent food poisoning incidents. Though some areas like Taebaek (태백) mining regions and Cheongju (청주) enjoyed pork roast, the concept of pork cuts was not well established. Pork was mainly used in stir-fries, roasts, and soups, with samgyeopsal (삼겹살) often marinated or boiled rather than grilled.
In the 1970s, Korea began exporting pork to Japan. Initially, this was in the form of whole carcasses (지육), with only the head, entrails, and trotters removed. Over time, exports shifted to deboned and processed pork cuts (정육). As the pig farming industry grew and standardized, high-quality pork without the characteristic odor became available.
In 1978, when the meat crisis hit, exports to Japan came to a halt. This led to an influx of pork into the domestic market, paving the way for the popularization of samgyeopsal in the 1980s. With the availability of premium-quality pork without any odor, samgyeopsal grilling became widespread, and pork consumption increased. Thanks to its affordability, samgyeopsal became a favored choice for office gatherings, gradually shifting the meat consumption pattern from beef to pork.
By the 1990s, various samgyeopsal dishes like daepae samgyeopsal emerged, along with specialized samgyeopsal restaurants. As pork distribution settled into selling deboned cuts, the government established legal standards. Following the IMF economic crisis in 1997, retiree-run samgyeopsal restaurants proliferated. In the 2000s, branding and upscale initiatives gained momentum for differentiation. Gradually, samgyeopsal, accompanied by soju, became a national dish in Korea, solidifying its place in culture with events like Samgyeopsal Day and the creation of samgyeopsal streets.
Samgyeopsal Day: A Unique Korean Celebration
Samgyeopsal Day is an unofficial holiday celebrated only in Korea, dedicated to enjoying pork belly. It falls on March 3rd every year, also known as “Sam Sam Day,” symbolizing the repetition of the number 3, which corresponds to the layers of pork belly. Its origins trace back to 2003 when Gyeonggi Province’s Paju City and Paju Yeoncheon Livestock Cooperative Association promoted it as a way to boost pork consumption that had decreased due to outbreaks of foot-and-mouth disease in 2000 and 2002. The aim was to support local pig farmers. Some local governments and agricultural cooperatives even organize events linking Samgyeopsal Day with local specialties like ginseng. This initiative has fostered solidarity among communities to support struggling pig farmers, and it has been quite successful in establishing itself as a cherished tradition.
Samgyeopsal Alley: A Culinary Haven in Cheongju
In Cheongju, Chungcheongbuk-do Province, there exists the unique “Samgyeopsal Alley,” stretching 340 meters, the only one of its kind nationwide. Situated within the ‘Cheongju Seomun Market’ in Sangdang-gu, Seomun-dong, this alley was created as a result of efforts by local merchants to revitalize the declining traditional market, which suffered a downturn after the relocation of the intercity bus terminal to the outskirts in 1998.
Inspired by Chuncheon’s Dakgalbi Alley, in 2012, with the support of Cheongju City, a themed street specializing in samgyeopsal was established. The annual festival, held for three days from March 1st, is sponsored by nearby pig farms, offering discounted pork sales. During the festival, visitors can enjoy samgyeopsal and other dishes at reduced prices and even participate in free samgyeopsal tasting events. This initiative not only revitalized the local market but also became a beloved culinary destination for locals and tourists alike.
Five-Layered Pork Belly (Ogyeopsal)
Ogyeopsal, a term coined by merchants in the early 2000s for marketing purposes, refers to pork belly that has not had its skin removed. While traditional samgyeopsal typically consists of four layers of fat and meat, there is no logical issue with the term “five-layered” as ogyeopsal represents the five layers including the skin.
Although not an official term in the meat industry, ogyeopsal is differentiated from regular samgyeopsal by its inclusion of the skin. To specify this distinction, it is sometimes referred to as “mibak (미박, 未剝)” samgyeopsal, indicating that the skin has not been removed, or “tangbak (탕박, 湯剝)” samgyeopsal, suggesting that only the pig’s hair has been removed.
While it was common in the southern regions like Yeongnam to distribute pork belly with the skin intact, the Seoul metropolitan area mainly sold pork belly with the skin removed. However, with the introduction of Jeju black pork belly with the skin in Seoul around 1995, which gained popularity due to its chewy texture, merchants sought differentiation and actively promoted “ogyeopsal” through marketing campaigns starting from the early 2000s.
Thick-Cut Pork Belly (Daepae Samgyeopsal)
Daepae samgyeopsal, known to have been developed by culinary researcher and entrepreneur Baek Jong-won in 1993, has an interesting backstory. Baek Jong-won initially purchased a meat slicer to ease the process of cutting pork belly in the kitchen. However, a mistake led to the purchase of a ham slicer instead. This incident became intertwined with the development of the menu.
Baek Jong-won also holds the trademark for “daepae samgyeopsal.” This dish gained immense popularity in the 1990s. The name “daepae samgyeopsal” originated from the appearance of thinly sliced frozen pork belly resembling layers of rice cakes pressed with a wooden paddle. Its generous portion and relatively affordable price have made it a favorite among students and office workers alike.
Changes in Dining Culture
In the 1970s, the introduction of propane gas brought significant changes to dining establishments. The culture of grilling meat or boiling stews on a gas burner placed on the table became widespread. While there were places using charcoal or briquettes before, they were not very common due to the inconvenience. With the convenience of easily igniting gas burners on the table, a culture emerged where unfinished dishes were served, and customers grilled or boiled them themselves.
In 1980, when Korea Fujika introduced the portable gas burner called “Bluestar,” the popularity of samgyeopsal soared. With just a portable gas burner and a frying pan, it became easy to sell samgyeopsal dishes. Moreover, it became possible for people to enjoy samgyeopsal easily at home or outdoors.
Ultimate Menu for Company Dinners
Since the 1990s, the ultimate menu for company dinners among office workers has been samgyeopsal, served alongside soju.[79] It’s even said that the most coveted seat at these dinners is next to the colleague who grills the meat the best. According to a survey conducted by the U.S. Meat Export Federation in 2002, the most enjoyed meat dish among Koreans is grilled pork belly. In a survey conducted in 2013 by a job portal targeting office workers, samgyeopsal ranked first as the preferred menu, while chicken came in third place. As for the most consumed alcoholic beverage during company dinners, soju ranked first, followed by beer, and soju mixed with beer, called somaek, came in third place, with makgeolli trailing behind.
Cooking and Consumption
Samgyeopsal, depending on the quality of its fat, can be enjoyed in various ways such as grilling, stir-frying, or boiling, as it becomes more flavorful and tender. If you need to limit your fat intake, boiling the pork and then removing the solidified fat on the surface before consumption is recommended. Additionally, consuming it with foods like gochujang or soybean paste, onions, garlic, mushrooms, perilla leaves, shrimp paste, or ripe kimchi can aid in protein digestion and fat breakdown, as well as provide benefits like sterilization, fat oxidation, and odor removal.
In Korea, it’s commonly used for grilling, stir-frying, boiling, and as a sliced meat ingredient for various dishes. In China, it’s used for Dongpo pork, while in other Western cuisines, it’s used for roasting and bacon production. In Western countries, the preference is for the front and hind legs, and the pork belly portion, deemed too fatty for health, is often discarded or processed into solidified cooking fat, known as lard, or bacon. Particularly in the United States, where bacon is made from pork belly, samgyeopsal is sometimes referred to as “Raw Bacon,” meaning “unprocessed bacon.”
If you have pancreatic issues like diabetes, it’s advisable to choose lean cuts. People who develop hives or diarrhea after eating pork may have trouble digesting pork fat or protein due to insufficient digestive enzymes. In such cases, it’s best to avoid consumption.
Grilled Pork Belly
Grilled pork belly, also known as samgyeopsal gui, is a dish that became popular after the supply of pork without any unpleasant smell or taste began. It is cooked in a frying pan without any special seasoning, typically just with salt. Due to its high moisture and fat content, it cannot be cooked on a grill. During cooking, the fat melts and fries the meat, giving it a characteristic brown color. It’s best to flip the meat when the surface turns brown due to the Maillard reaction to prevent excessive juice loss.
Pork belly consists of layers of red meat and fat, creating a rich flavor profile, and it’s considered one of the most savory cuts of pork. Overcooking can result in the loss of fat, making the meat tough and less flavorful, so it’s essential to grill it quickly over high heat to retain its tenderness.
While it’s common to sprinkle pepper or salt according to personal taste, using salt should be approached more as a seasoning to enhance flavor rather than to adjust saltiness. For a better taste experience, consider using condiments like gochujang, soybean paste, ssamjang, salted sesame oil, or shrimp paste. Enjoy it wrapped in various vegetables like onions, garlic, mushrooms, perilla leaves, lettuce, cabbage, or crown daisy, along with pickled radish, seasoned seaweed, water parsley, or green onion. It pairs well with soju, a Korean distilled spirit, enhancing the overall dining experience.
Suyuk (Boiled Pork)
Suyuk is a dish made using thick slices of pork belly, and the key to making it delicious lies in removing any unpleasant odors from the meat during cooking. To do this, soak the meat in cold water for at least half a day to remove any blood, and when boiling, add ingredients such as onions, green onions, whole peppercorns, garlic, and ginger, along with rice wine (cheongju) or soju, to help eliminate any remaining odors from the meat. After blanching the meat once, discard the water, then boil it again with various vegetables to further remove impurities from the meat. Boil gently over low heat for about an hour. Once sliced thinly, it can be served with dipping sauces like ssamjang or shrimp paste, which contains lipase, an enzyme that helps break down fat. Suyuk pairs well with dishes like pork bone soup (dwaeji gukbap) and can also be enjoyed as part of a set meal with dishes like hongeo samhap, a combination of boiled pork, fermented skate, and fresh vegetables.
Jeyuk Bokkeum (Spicy Stir-fried Pork)
Jeyuk bokkeum is a representative dish of Korean cuisine, made by marinating thick slices of pork belly and neck in a spicy red pepper paste sauce with plenty of ginger juice. The meat is scored deeply and marinated to ensure that the flavors penetrate deeply. Because of the seasoning, the unique smell of pork is removed, and the dish becomes even more flavorful and delicious. To make the sauce, finely chop green onions, garlic, and ginger, and mix them with sugar, red pepper paste, soy sauce, and red pepper flakes. Add ground black pepper, sesame seeds, and sesame oil to complete the sauce. Once the meat has been marinated, it is stir-fried in a heated pan until the sauce is well incorporated. It’s important to keep the lid open while stir-frying to prevent excess liquid from forming. Jeyuk bokkeum is typically served with steamed rice and other side dishes, making it a popular choice for a hearty Korean meal.
Osam Bulgogi (Spicy Stir-fried Squid and Pork Belly)
Osam bulgogi is a spicy stir-fried dish made with squid and pork belly. It combines the chewy texture of squid and the richness of pork belly with a spicy red pepper paste sauce, making it a great side dish or a perfect accompaniment for drinks. To prepare, remove the innards of the squid, clean it thoroughly, and cut one side of the body vertically into wide strips. Then, make cuts into the flesh and slice it into pieces about 1cm wide and 5cm long. Mix together red pepper paste, red pepper flakes, sugar, minced garlic, soy sauce, and sesame oil to make the seasoning sauce. Marinate the prepared pork belly and squid with the seasoning sauce, along with onions and green onions. Heat a greased pan, and stir-fry the pork belly and squid separately. Once they are partially cooked, add the red peppers and continue to stir-fry together until fully cooked. It’s best to cook them separately initially to ensure each ingredient is cooked properly before combining them.
Samgyeopsal Duruchigi (Stir-fried Pork Belly)
Samgyeopsal duruchigi is a regional dish from Gyeongsangbuk-do Province made primarily with pork belly. The term “duruchigi” means using one thing in various ways, implying that this dish is versatile and can suit anyone’s taste. It’s prepared by simmering various ingredients in an iron pot with a little broth, similar to stir-frying, making it a cross between stew and stir-fry. Pork belly, partially cooked, is seasoned with ingredients like kimchi, gochujang (red pepper paste), red pepper flakes, minced garlic, and then stir-fried with assorted vegetables until fully cooked.